Tag Archives: Le Roi Soleil

Why the 17th Century?

2 Jul

Questions that people ask me quite a lot when we get chatting about my interest in historical dress are “Why? When are you going to wear it? It’s such a lot of effort for something that you’re only going to take out and look at. Can’t you get involved with a theatre group and then it would at least be used?”

Then someone usually points out that despite owning the relevant clothes, I’m never going to wake up in the time period.

To be fair, I’m not a complete idiot :P.

I found the Jane Austen dress easy to justify: there’s a festival every year in Bath, and it can be one component of that wardrobe. But I struggled to justify the Versailles dress (so called because it’s a ridiculous colour, with gold and pearls and lace and nonsense).

The 17th century is a horrendously underlooked portion of history. So many amazing and ground-breaking things were going on all over the world, yet we don’t seem to celebrate it, particularly in the costuming world.

As a child, I was obsessed (and I mean properly OBSESSED) with Terry Deary’s Horrible Histories books, particularly those covering the ancient world, early Britain, the Tudors and the Victorians. Weirdly, that huge gap in the middle covering the 17th and 18th centuries, is what my imagination longs for now. But as an 8-year old, reared on a diet of Roald Dahl’s dark humour, I was seeking out books about horrific deaths and unjust punishments, not graceful courts and ostentatious dress.

This is a wider issue than just my own though. There is a wealth of information available for costumers about the Tudor period, probably propelled by the popularity of things like Ren Faires and The Tudors on TV. The Georgian period is also incredibly well-covered, and if you were to get stuck on how to make underpinnings or a little jacket from this part of history, chances are that there are a few dozen blogs and websites out there that can show you the answers. Late 17th century? Not so much.

Inspiration Picture

Courtesy of Wikipedia: Honthorst Roodere detail

I plodded along quite happily in a state of 1660s-ignorance until I arrived at university. I made friends with Emeline, resident of France, who bought me a DVD of the musical Le Roi Soliel for Christmas. And just like that, I was hooked.

I wanted to know everything about the 17th century. What they ate. Where they lived. What they wore. How power was distributed. Who was in love with who. How you go about looking like one of the sleepy-eyed gems of Lely’s court.

This Faustian need for knowledge continued alongside my sustainable development studies for another 3 years, and finding myself graduating last month, I decided to do something about it. Having read more books on Louis XIV than on wind turbines, and looked at more paintings than allotments, I got Googling and found Nehelina Patterns’ Baroque Dress pattern. I bought 6 metres of orange and gold shot taffeta, moved the Jane Austen dress off Maisie and got sewing.

6 weeks later, I’ve got a bodice and the beginnings of a skirt, and every time I look at it, I feel like my pining was worth it. It might not be the most perfect replica, or the most technically brilliant piece of dressmaking, but it’s all mine, and to me it sums up what the 1660s were all about. When I listen to Je Fais de Toi Mon Essentiel, it’s the dress I see in my mind’s eye, walking defiantly along Versailles’ mirrored corridors.

I’ll be back soon with a take on a chemise.

Until then,

The One With the Amazing Woman Talents.

Dissertations, Graduations and Confections

4 May

I’m officially done.

The dissertation’s gone, the last pieces of coursework are submitted, and I’ve experienced the most stressful fortnight of my life. And in 47 days, I’ll be graduating, having reached the end of the education conveyor belt.

While this is an utterly terrifying prospect, this fear brings with it an amazing realisation that I’ve got a whole summer of sewing ahead of me. A WHOLE SUMMER. I’ve got so many things I want to do, try, and probably fail at.

As the list stands:

  • One of the Regency era dresses from Janet Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion Book 1. I’ve got 6 metres of white cotton crying out for some empire-line loveliness. I think I want the bib-front, 3/4 sleeve one.
  • A spencer – this is all actually part of what I’ve termed ‘The Great Jane Austen Wardrobe Project’ – as yet still in the early planning stages with regard to colours, materials and style. 
  • A late 17th century court dress. I’ve wanted one of these for YEARS. Ever since my now flatmate bought me a copy of Le Roi Soleil  in first year, I’ve been pining for an off the shoulder, huge-sleeved thing of gorgeousness. 
  • A shift to go under said ridiculous dress

I also need to acquire a dressmaker’s dummy, if for no other reason than to avoid maiming myself while trying to pin sleeves onto bodices, and to actually produce a straight hem. I’ve been putting this purchase off for a long time, partly because I’ve been living away from home in student halls and houses, and partly because these things cost a flipping bomb. But the time has come, and I can put some of the money I’ll get from selling textbooks towards buying a dummy.

I also require a haircut. I’ve got the finest, most ridiculously thin hair that has no volume in it whatsoever, and it’s got to the stage where it’s far too long (underarm level). When I was little, it was past my bottom, but since coming to university, it’s gone to pot. I think there’s going to have to be a drastic amount of work done to it by someone who knows how to make a good job out of a bad situation.

This summer, one of my friends is getting married, and myself and my flutey partner-in-crime are going to be providing music for the ceremony. It’s going to be lovely, and I really can’t wait. I plan on whacking out a Twenties-influenced ensemble for the evening, which I’ll post pictures of here.

Alongside all these other things, and a summer job, I’m going to make a serious effort of this blog. I admire bloggers who keep their audience updated on their plans, and who manage weekly (or even more regular) updates. To the committed, I salute you. So if I cook anything tasty, do anything interesting, or pick up a sewing needle, I’ll come and bore you with it. This is my goal. Make it a good habit.

I think that’s all the nonsense for the time being – back to packing and tidying!

Until we meet again,

The One With the Amazing Woman Talents